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Post by slick1100 on Dec 8, 2006 18:52:42 GMT -5
Started noticing a knock in the front suspension while driving around in parking lots yesterday. Took it to a local shop today to get a quote on doing one side and was so shocked by the estimate I've decided to do them on my own. They did prove though that the "automatic" locking hubs are permanently locked and need to be replaced. Next week I've got Wednesday through Saturday off, which seems like the time to take care of it. I'll probably gather parts tomorrow and do it Wednesday. So if you're out and about, or just plain bored, swing by and shoot some bull. It will be tons of fun!
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Post by rstep on Dec 9, 2006 7:21:45 GMT -5
Slick let me know when and if you need anything I'll try and get over to help.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 9, 2006 9:23:25 GMT -5
Thanks Bob. Barring the unforeseen, Wednesday is the day. If I'm going to do it, I figure I'll do both sides and be done with it. Only other thing that has been suggested was to change the front U-joints while I'm in there. I don't have the ball-joint splitter or the mini-press, but those are available for loan through AutoZone, so no big deal. I'm not disappointed, since everything appears to be original and that axle is 22 years old!
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Post by rstep on Dec 9, 2006 9:48:23 GMT -5
Rob you may want to fix that leaf mount while you're doing your maintainance on the front.We can weld the hole and redrill it if you want,just something to think about.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 9, 2006 9:53:37 GMT -5
Sounds like a good idea. Save changing perches for when I get new springs.
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Post by rstep on Dec 9, 2006 10:00:14 GMT -5
That's what I was thinking.
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Post by rstep on Dec 13, 2006 7:55:31 GMT -5
Rob any plan for today.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 13, 2006 16:30:00 GMT -5
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Post by zjeep on Dec 13, 2006 22:45:23 GMT -5
This may be a stupid suggestion since i know little to nothing about Dodge but if you have a front trac bar maybe you should check the bolts holding the bracket in place. Awhile back the bracket for my trac bar came loose after a few runs, i tightened the bolts holding it in place and it fixed the knocking noise, just a suggestion. You may not even have a trac bar but i would check the bolts under the front end.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 13, 2006 23:54:22 GMT -5
I've got leafspirngs, so no trac bar. Good thought though, but it between the loose spindle and the draglink I think I've narrowed down where the play is. Unfortunately the draglink ball joints are not replaceable, so I must get a whole new draglink. At $75 it's not too bad, and about a third of the cost of an adjustable draglink and it will have a lifetime warranty!
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Post by zjeep on Dec 14, 2006 0:02:34 GMT -5
Goodluck with that, $75 isnt bad and you cant beat the warranty.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 14, 2006 17:17:28 GMT -5
Well I retorqued my front wheel bearing adjustment nuts and replaced my auto-locking (or is that perma-locking?!) hubs today after Bob found the passenger spindle loose yesterday while investigating for the clunking noise up front. I snapped pics along the way: The backside of the outer cap: Tricky maneuver at first. While squeezing the pliers on the lockring with one hand I used my other hand to pull on the inner hub body using one of the cap screws: The inner body removed: See the snap-ring in there? See anything distinquishable? This thing was packed full of grease! Here's what you were just looking at: the snap-ring, washer, lock nut, and retainer ring. The actual adjustment nut is still inside. The damage done by using a screwdriver and hammer! Auto parts stores don't carry these, so I had to reinstall them, but they will be replaced next time I repack bearings. I bought the proper socket for $15, and they are available as a loaner at most auto parts stores. The new inner hub body. It only has the outer retainer ring installed while I checked for float. To mount the inner retainer snap-ring you must use a prybar or such to force the axle shaft outward to expose the groove on the shaft. Final installation. It's locked while I checked for operation and freedom of movement. I'm very impressed with these hubs. They have a limited lifetime warranty, and are a very easy to use 7/8ths turn lock/unlock. Now to see how well they handle the trail! I still need to replace the draglink, so the knock is still there, but knowing what is causing the noise is a big relief. I was relieved to find that the retorque of the passenger bearings took out the play and didn't require a new spindle. Getting rid of the locked-in automatic locking hubs should ease wear on the front end, and possibly improve economy. When you're getting 10mpg, any little bit helps!
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Post by zjeep on Dec 14, 2006 17:52:57 GMT -5
Thats a nice yellow color, easily a 10hp gain with those . We will see how it does on the trails soon.
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Post by K5 on Dec 14, 2006 18:31:36 GMT -5
If your still looking for the spindle nuts you may want to check out Merles Auto. There is one on 22nd and Pantano. I was able to get some hard to find parts for my rig there.
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Post by rstep on Dec 14, 2006 19:30:08 GMT -5
Good write up Slick,glad there were no surprises in the hub.Not sure if you will see any great improvement on milage,going part time on the chero proved nothing but to remember to lock in on the trail.Anymore on the temp senser?
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 14, 2006 20:06:56 GMT -5
Good write up Slick,glad there were no surprises in the hub.Not sure if you will see any great improvement on milage,going part time on the chero proved nothing but to remember to lock in on the trail.Anymore on the temp senser? Nothing done yet as far as the temp sensor. I want to clean up the connector to it and see if the code will go away. If not, then I guess it will have to be replaced. I have to figure out where it lives first! My buddy who owned my RamCharger and drove a duplicate Sheriff's dept truck got 17mpg on the highway. I'm getting around 10 no matter what.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 14, 2006 20:11:13 GMT -5
If your still looking for the spindle nuts you may want to check out Merles Auto. There is one on 22nd and Pantano. I was able to get some hard to find parts for my rig there. Thanks Kyle. The guy at Pepboys recommended checking Merles, but since I plan on repacking the bearings if we do a water crossing in January I decided I'd wait a few months. Then I will replace the ball joints, replace the u-joints, and repack the bearings.
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Post by rstep on Dec 15, 2006 8:54:46 GMT -5
Slick do you know of using the cheavy drag links on the RC makes it adjustable so that after a lift you can recenter the steering wheel.cost is about 100 and you do have to ream out the ends to fit the bigger joint but may be a way you want to go if you're replacing the drag link.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 15, 2006 9:10:17 GMT -5
Nah, hadn't seen that mod Bob. Sounds like a weener though! I'm not above putting Chevy parts on my Dodge. The cheapest Dodge adjustable draglink I've found was $210, so the Chevy unit definitely sounds like the way to go.
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Post by slick1100 on Dec 15, 2006 14:03:13 GMT -5
Nothing better than a dodge with chevy parts ;D Anything is better than a Dodge with Mitsubishi parts. Been there done that, don't have either truck still which should prove it.
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